Spaniards are reputed to be amongst Europe’s most voluble people. So why have they kept silent about the terrors of the Spanish Civil War and the rule of dictator Generalísimo Francisco Franco? The appearance, sixty years after that war ended, of mass graves containing victims of Franco’s death squads has finally broken what Spaniards call 'the pact of forgetting'. As these graves were dug up, Giles Tremlett embarked on a journey around Spain - and through Spanish history. Spaniards, he found, had tried to wipe both the Civil War and Franco from their memory. The graves were secretos a voces - whispered secrets everyone knew about but did not discuss. Ingrained fear and a desire not to reopen old wounds were to blame. Silence was also, however, the price exacted by Franco’s people for not disturbing democracy.