More than thirty years ago a green and unsophisticated Methodist boy from Oz had to be taught how to dress his salad correctly in a tiny Paris bistro, and felt the first stirring that he could 'perhaps nurture an interest in food'. Stephen Downes, now a renowned restaurant critic, returns to the city of lights and Michelin stars to test France's legendary reputation for fine dining. Is Paris still home to the 'great cathedrals' of restauration or — sacré bleu — is it a city of over-fussy, over-priced dinosaurs leftover from the days of haute cuisine? His exhaustive knowledge, dry humour and fervour for fine food make Stephen's diary a delicious, although sometimes unsavoury, read. You'll feel very keenly that you are experiencing an authentic Parisian treat.