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This book is an expanded version of The Applied Dynamics of Ocean Surface Waves. It presents theoretical topics on ocean wave dynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal and offshore engineering as well as coastal oceanography. Advanced analytical and numerical techniques are applied, such as singular perturbations. In this expanded version, three chapters on recent developments have been added. The first is on multiple scattering by periodic or random bathymetry. The second is on Zakharov's theory of nonlinear wave fields with broad spectra. The third is an extensive discussion of powerful numerical techniques for highly nonlinear waves. Other new topics include infragravity waves, upstream solitons, Venice storm gates, etc. In addition, there are many new exercises.
Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves will be invaluable for graduate students and researchers in coastal and ocean engineering, geophysical fluid dynamicists interested in water waves, and theoretical scientists and applied mathematicians wishing to develop new techniques for challenging problems or to apply techniques existing elsewhere.
Chapter 1: Introduction
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Propagation of Transient Waves in Open Water of Essentially Constant Depth
Refraction by Slowly Varying Depth or Current
Long Waves of Infinitesimal Amplitude Over Bottom with Appreciable Variations
Harbor Oscillations Excited by Incident Long Waves
Effects of Head Loss at a Constriction on the Scattering of Long Waves: Hydraulic Theory
Multiple Scattering by Seabed Irregularities
Floating Body Dynamics: Diffraction and Radiation by Large Bodies
Viscous Damping in Small-Amplitude Waves
Mass Transport Due to Viscosity
Radiation Stresses, Bound Long Waves and Longshore Current
Nonlinear Long Waves in Shallow Water
Narrow-Banded Nonlinear Waves in Water of Intermediate or Great Depth
Broad-Banded Nonlinear Surface Waves in the Open Sea
Numerical Simulation of Nonlinear Wave Dynamics
Readership: Graduate students and lecturers in coastal and ocean engineering, as well as theoretical engineers, applied mathematicians and geophysicists.
A new chapter on multiple scattering by periodic or random bathymetry
A chapter on Zakharov's theory of broad spectrum wave fields
Extensive treatment of new computational techniques for simulating nonlinear waves
New sections on infragravity waves, upstream solitons, Venice storm gates, etc.
Many new exercises